Everyday Carry

I Improved My Shooting in 1 Week with the Mantis Titan X

I’ve been shooting for the past few years and I’d say that I’m a decent shot. But this year, I really want to focus on getting better, and for me, that means becoming faster and more accurate.

As you probably know, nothing beats the experience gained from live fire, but the cost can rack up pretty quickly. So for most of us, dry fire is where we get the majority of our training. I’ve done thousands of dry fire reps, but at some point, it starts to feel like you’re just going through the motions with very little feedback on what you’re doing right or wrong. Because of that, I’ve been looking for something to elevate my dry fire experience, and the system I decided to check out was the Mantis Titan X Training System. Honestly, no other firearms-related piece of equipment has helped me improve my shooting like this device.

If you’re unfamiliar with the Titan X, the simplest way to explain it is that it’s a dummy gun with proprietary sensors built in, which are able to read the various movements of the gun.

The device itself is available in different sizes. I opted for the Glock 19 size since that’s what I prefer to shoot in real life. In the package, you get two weighted dummy magazines and a few other small accessories. The dummy gun features a Glock-style accessory rail and an optic cut that’s compatible with both RMR and RMSc footprints. One of the most appealing features of the Titan X is the resetting trigger, which means no more racking the slide after every shot.

For me, this product solves a big problem. Local ranges around me don’t allow drawing from a holster, and they don’t allow rapid fire. The only way I’d be able to practice those things with live rounds is by driving a couple of hours out to the mountains, which just isn’t realistic with my schedule. So, a lot of the drills that actually build speed and real-world shooting ability, I just couldn’t practice. Until the Titan X.

To use the Titan X, you just press a button on the slide to turn it on, then head over to the Mantis X app. The two sync up, and after a quick calibration, you’re ready to start training.

The app offers a lot of different shooting modes, each with descriptions to help guide your training. The app itself is free and doesn’t require a compatible device to check out, so I’d recommend downloading it if you’re interested in the Mantis ecosystem.

I’m still getting the hang of everything and haven’t tried all the modes yet, so I want to highlight the ones I use regularly and the ones that have been the most beneficial for me.

I want to mention that I have a spare phone that I’ve dedicated to the Mantis X app. I keep it mounted on a lightweight tripod nearby while I train. This isn’t necessary but it does make it easy to quickly check my results after each shot.

As I mentioned earlier, I can’t draw from a holster or rapid-fire at my local ranges. And when it comes to dry fire, you typically can’t rapid-fire a real gun unless you’re using some kind of add-on. So I’ve actually never done a proper Bill Drill before. Since it’s such a common drill and a solid indicator of shooting ability, I knew I wanted to try the Bill Drill mode. With this, you draw from concealment and fire six shots as fast as possible, while still trying to stay accurate and keep your shots under control.

To warm up, I usually go straight into a few Bill Drills. The app has a daily goal of 50 shots, so I’ll typically just run Bill Drills until I hit that. This mode does give you a score along with a breakdown of what it means, and across different modes, you’ll get different types of data depending on what Mantis considers relevant. That said, I don’t really rely on the scoring in Bill Drill mode. I understand what it’s trying to measure, but in my experience, I can shoot pretty poorly and still score in the 90s or even 100. So for me, the score doesn’t mean much here. I’m more focused on my speed and how accurate I am during rapid fire.

As someone who doesn’t really get to practice rapid fire, this is where I actually started learning new things with the Titan X. I’d heard of trigger freeze before, but never really understood what it was. It’s basically when you’re shooting and don’t let the trigger move forward enough to reset. Because I don’t train rapid fire, I would never run into this during normal dry fire. But with Bill Drills on the Titan X, I’ve experienced it multiple times. This system gave me exposure to that issue, and now I’m able to recognize it and adjust. To me, that’s a big deal and something I wouldn’t have picked up otherwise.

Before we move on, I want to touch on shot placement and accuracy. When using the Mantis system, you can keep a mental note of where the laser lands, but if you want to actually visualize it, you can use the app’s camera mode to track your shots on a target. From what I understand, this only works with Mantis-designed targets, which you can download and print for free. Mantis also sells printed versions on thicker cardstock, which is what I went with since I plan on using this system long term.

After Bill Drills, I usually move into Holster Draw Analysis mode. In this mode, you draw from concealment and fire a single shot. This was actually my primary form of dry fire practice before using the Titan X. Now, the difference is that I get much more detailed feedback. As you go through each rep, the app breaks everything down from the moment the buzzer goes off. It shows how long it took to establish your grip, bring the gun up, acquire the target, fire the shot, and your total time. Before the Titan X, I used a shot timer to time myself, which only gave me the total time. Having this level of detail makes it much easier to see where you’re losing time and what you need to work on. Since switching to the Titan X, I’ve stopped using a shot timer for this type of training, and my draw times are now much more consistently around one second.

Next, I move on to Endurance mode. Here, the goal is to maintain a streak of shots scoring 92 or higher. I can’t speak for everyone, but I find this mode really difficult. There’s something about it that just messes with me. Getting a 92 on its own can already be challenging, but doing it repeatedly starts to feel like a mental battle. As the streak goes on, I can feel my focus slipping. My trigger control changes, and it almost feels like the trigger is getting lighter. Because of that, I start rushing shots and pulling the trigger faster. It’s a very different kind of challenge and a solid test of consistency and focus.

To finish my training, I use Open Training mode. This lets you shoot freely while still getting feedback on each shot, and it’s where I really analyze what I’m doing. Every shot gets a score out of 100, and if you’re off-axis, the app will show how the gun moved and suggest possible reasons why. With that said, I treat those suggestions as possibilities, not facts. Sometimes the explanations don’t fully line up. The main ones I see are “slapping the trigger,” “too much finger,” or “too little finger,” but I’ve had situations where my finger placement doesn’t change at all, and I still get different negative feedback. So over time, you start to figure out what’s actually useful and what to take with a grain of salt. Personally, I like Open Training because I can use it in a variety of scenarios. For example, instead of doing traditional cardio to warm up for a workout, which I hate, I’ll walk on the treadmill while dry firing. It gives me something to focus on, mixes up my training, and helps me work on the skill of moving while shooting. With the Mantis data on top of that, I’m able to get valuable feedback and a better understanding of what I need to improve. And that applies to pretty much any situation you want to train for, whether that’s sitting, shooting out of a window, or anything else. Open Training becomes a really useful data-collecting tool, no matter the scenario.

After I finish with the Titan X, I’ll usually switch over to my carry gun with a laser cartridge. That’s mainly for practicing draw and fire, along with basic target work. I do this to reinforce what I worked on with the Titan X, using the gun I’d actually rely on to defend myself. I think this is really important and definitely something I’d recommend, because there’s not much point in dialing everything in on the Titan X if you’re not also training with your real firearm. At the end of the day, you’re not carrying the Titan X out in public, so make sure you’re putting in time with what you actually plan to carry.

After training with the Titan X over the past week, the biggest thing I’ve noticed is this:

When I switch back to a real gun, I feel sharper. More accurate. And my trigger control feels much more consistent. It’s subtle at first, and I was honestly a bit skeptical about whether the training was even working. But once I went back to live fire, everything just felt cleaner. I can control the gun better, my shots group tighter, and overall my accuracy has improved at different distances.

To sum it up, if you’re limited by range rules like I am, or you’re just trying to save money while still improving, the Titan X is a game-changer. It lets you train things that are either difficult or straight-up impossible to practice at home with a real gun. And it gives you feedback that you’re not going to get otherwise. For me, it’s become an invaluable training tool, and honestly something I wish I had picked up years ago instead of spending countless hours doing unstructured dry fire or burning through ammo without much improvement.


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I Made my own DIY Concealed Carry Athletic Wear Bottoms

Because I basically live in athletic clothing, I have a lot of interest in being able to conceal carry well with that type of apparel. So I often search for whatever new approach companies are offering for this. I guess it’s because of this interest that I’m often advertised stuff from the company Arrowhead Tactical, which makes athletic clothing designed specifically for concealed carry. You can do your own research, as they have various offerings. I just want to focus on the idea of their bottoms. 

After some research, the concealed carry aspect of their bottoms largely has to do with an internal belt loop system that allows you to wear a belt on the inside of the waistband. Arrowhead has its own proprietary belt to do this, but you can probably get away with other belts. Of course, there are some other features and benefits to the Arrowhead bottoms, but personally, I’m just not in the market to buy $70 shorts or $100 sweat pants, before any sales are applied. Especially considering that I’d need multiple for use throughout the week.

After some thought, I told myself that I can just sew on belt loops to the bottoms that I already own and be basically in the same position, while not blowing any money. So, I did just that.

Of course, doing this is dependent on having a sewing machine, which I already have. Again, the goal is to add belt loops to some bottoms. For this, you can approach this project in various ways, but after some experimentation, I’ve found that what works best for me is to use a stretchy elastic band that I already own. I actually went to the store, bought fabric, and made my own belt loops, which can give you very good results depending on what fabric you use and your sewing abilities, but personally, the elastic band works well for me because it’s pre-made, so I don’t have to do any extra sewing, and the elastic does help to fit different-sized belts. 

Again, the elastic band is premade made and all I had to do was cut it down to size. After some trial and error, I found that a 2.5-inch strip works best for my application. You can definitely make it a few 1/16 of an inch shorter, but the more perfectly sized you make it, it’s just going to be harder to get a belt in and out, especially considering that many edc belts are going to have areas of different thicknesses. To me, leaving some extra space makes the whole system more convenient to use. 

Once you have your loop strips cut out, it’s just a matter of actually sewing them in place. I went with a zigzag stitch with a very short stitch length. There certainly are other ways to tack a belt loop in place, but I did it this way with the loop flat, simply to make this process as easy and as fast as possible, because I wasn’t sure if this was something that I would even like. If you’re serious about this, you can certainly research belt loop stitching for yourself. 

If you look at some normal bottoms, they’ll usually have 5 belt loops. Two in front and three distributed across the back. For this project, I did a little more customization in terms of where to put the belt loops based on how the bottoms were already laid out and made. I wouldn’t say that my position is traditional, so I’m not going to give any recommendations here. 

During the sewing process, even though I had the belt loops precut to length, it doesn’t hurt to stop and double-check the size to make sure that the loops will actually fit your belt. I knew that I was going to base the loops around my Aegitech belt, so I made sure that I was able to easily get the belt in and out. 

Once you get all 5 belt loops sewn in place, you’re done. Just clean up any loose threads and try the bottoms out with your belt and gun setup. 

I’ve experimented with this process a few times now with external belt loops like you’d get with traditional bottoms and with internal belt loops as you’d get with the Arrowhead Tactical bottoms that sparked this whole project. The internal belt loops are going to be better looking in my opinion because you’ll likely be adding material that doesn’t match your original bottoms. So having them inside hides the mismatching material. However, from my experience, the internal belt loops are a bit more finicky to deal with because that’s just not what we're used to, and also because our belts are just not made to be used that way. So it just takes a bit more time to set everything up. But again, it does look good and not unsightly if your shirt gets lifted up. 

In terms of the idea and project itself. It allworks. The belt loops absolutely function as they should and allow me to conceal carry in any bottoms. But is it worth doing, or is it any better than some of the other products that I’ve shown, like the Leisure Carry Clip-On Belt system, or the Phlster Enigma, or any other system? Well, that really depends on how you carry. I think there’s a time and place for the various systems, and I will continue to rotate through them. I haven’t found the perfect system for me yet. 

However, I think that if you own and know how to use a sewing machine, this is certainly the cheapest approach to concealed carrying in any sort of bottoms. You just need 5 belt loops, the belt you already own, and you’re golden. Super simple project that I can definitely recommend if this is what you want to do. 


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Low Recoil Glock 43X Clone Build | Norsso Reptile XP Ported + SCT SC Frame

I just put together perhaps one of my nicest builds, my brand new Glock 43X clone.

This build started its life with the SCT Manufacturing SC frame, a Glock 43X sized clone lower. Personally, I’ve had a couple Glock 43X and currently a Glock 48 build, but my problem with the Glock frame itself is that it has very little texturing on the frame which makes it a bit slippery. I’ve always had to run some sort of aftermarket stick on grip like Talon Grips. That works but I think it’s ugly. Since getting rid of all my 43Xs, I’ve moved on to the Shadow Systems CR920X, which is about the same size but has a much better, stickier grip texture. But when I saw that SCT Manufacturing made a 43X-clone lower, I thought it’d be fun to put one together. 

Aside from the better texture, the SCT frame also has other minor upgrades like the double undercut, which I appreciate because that works with how I grip a handgun. It also has index points for the thumbs, a more aggressive beavertail hook, and utilizes a picatinny rail instead of the Glock slimline rail. Overall, I personally appreciate everything that the SCT lower presents over the 43X.

Personally, I purchased the stripped SC lower for about $50, but you can buy a preassembled lower for about $90. I knew that I was going with some aftermarket parts for the lower anyway, so the stripped lower works better for me. But overall, I think the price of this lower is the best thing about it. To get a serialized Glock clone lower, whether it’s a 43X, 19, or 17, for about $50 is just a crazy deal. Especially for one that actually provides good features and is functional. 

To outfit the lower, I went with stock parts for things like the pins and springs, but the main controls that I’d interface with, I went with Tyrant CNC’s extended mag and slide release. I’ve used version 1 of these controls on all my other 43X’s, so I thought I’d try these updated version 2 controls. So far, they feel good, so no complaints. 

For the trigger, I’m running the Overwatch Precision TAC drop-in kit. This is what I run in my EDC Shadow Systems MR920. It’s something that I’m very comfortable with, I think it looks great, and it's probably my favorite trigger for the price.

Moving to the star of the show and the upper assembly, we have the Norsso Reptile XP slide. I’ve always been a bit on the fence about the Reptile line of slides from Norsso. They were never really my favorite looking, that’s why I’ve always bought the Norsso Piranha slide. But man, in hand, this is one of the sickest slides I’ve ever seen. It’s so aggressively looking but also very functional. The slide milling designs work so well for racking from the front or rear serrations. Then up top, we get two side ports which match perfectly with the Norsso C Port barrel. Aside from looking insane, the ports should help to reduce felt recoil, a byproduct of just shooting such a small gun and lightweight gun. This is another reason why I never really liked the 43X. It’s just overly harsh for my taste, which is again why I switched to the Shadow Systems CR920X. I do think it has a bit less recoil> It’s nothing mind-blowing, but I do feel a difference. This is partly due to the much better grip texturing. I’m currently running the Radian Ramjet and Afterburner combo in my Shadow Systems MR920, and I love it. I want to run the same setup on the CR920X. Radian has announced such a thing but at this point, it’s basically vaporware because they keep pushing the product back. Since that’s not coming out anytime soon, having this ported Norsso build is going to be a good alternative. 

Lastly, I have the Holosun EPS Carry MRS green dot. The EPS carry is kind of the go-to for smaller guns at this point. This is the first one that I own, but I don’t doubt that it’ll function just fine for EDC, considering the quality of all the other Holosuns that I own and how vetted this optic is. 


I was able to take this build to the range and live fire it with about 300 rounds. 250 rounds of Federal American Eagle 115gr and 50 rounds of Federal American Eagle 147gr. These are basically the only two range ammo that I shoot, so that’s what I used for my testing. 

In terms of reliability, I had one malfunction. A failure to feed. I wish I had a reason for this, but it is what it is. I’m kind of surprised at how flawless the build ran otherwise. It is ported and I’m running an OEM normal recoil spring with normal stock weight. Not tuned or anything and it ran just fine at both the extreme ends of everyday 9mm bullet weights, 115gr and 147gr. For me, I’m happy with the reliability. 

For the upper itself. In terms of function, I think it’s great. Again, the milling and serrations on this upper are extremely functional and grippy, but not so aggressive like the Piranha slide that your fingers can get cut up on the sharp corners. Everything here works beautifully. 

When it comes to the porting aspect of this upper, I would also say that it works great. On this range trip, I shot both the Norrso build and my Shadow Systems CR920X. This was the comparison that I most cared about because I do EDC the CR920X quite a bit, so I wanted to know if the porting reduces felt recoil or not. I would say that it certainly does. It’s not like a night and day difference where recoil is completely eliminated or anything like that, but it is less. Personally, I felt enough of a difference that I put the Norsso upper on my CR920X lower to see how’d that would work in case I wanted to just EDC that setup moving forward. One thing that I do want to point out is that with the Norsso upper and the ports, I feel that the setup ran softer with 115gr ammo, which is why I shot so much more of it than 147gr.  

When it comes to the lower, there’s good and bad. Personally, I ride the meat of my left hand pretty high on the grip, and with slimline guns, I’ve always pinned the slide release too hard, causing it not to lock back after the last round. Surprisingly, this was not a problem with the SCT lower. Extra surprising because of the extended Tyrant slide release, considering that it’s one of the furthest sticking out slide releases that I’ve ever used. 

For the bad, I personally think that this lower could be grippier. The main side panels are basically the same stippling texture as that of a Polymer 80 lower, which is probably my favorite, but there isn’t enough of it. I’d rather have the stippling around the entire grip rather than just the sides. The horizontal lines aren’t doing it for me and the smooth indented area on the sides of the grip doesn’t help either. Again, in comparison with the Shadow Systems CR920X lower, which I used to compare with the SCT on this range trip, the CR920X is about the same size but was less slippery because of all the extra texture. 

My other complaint with this lower would be with the mag opening chamber, in that it doesn’t drop free with Shield Arms S15 mags. To me, these are basically the standard that manufacturers should work around. Obviously, make the stock Glock 10-round mags work, but so many of these S15 mags have been sold and they are so synonymous with the 43X platform that all manufacturers should make their lowers work with these mags perfectly. The fact that the mag doesn’t drop free greatly reduces the appeal of this lower for me, just because it makes mag change drills much less practical in a sense. That alone would make me not EDC this lower and that’s a shame. 

Something else to note about S15 mags in this lower is that this combo leaves a little gap at the bottom of the grip. That’s not a functional problem, just aesthetically a bit ugly. I personally ordered the SCT magwell that would work with this lower to hopefully fix the problem. 

So let’s sum it up. The Norsso upper is a win for me. So much so that I’m going to keep testing it out, and if all does well, I might swap it over on my CR920X lower because it does offer enough felt recoil reduction that I would want to EDC it. On the other hand, with the SCT lower, aside from the other complaints, the fact that it doesn’t drop free an S15 mag is a problem for me and I can’t EDC this lower. It’s going to be another range toy lower. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Norsso N43BN Reptile XP Slide for G43/43X
https://norsso.com/slides/n43bn-reptile-xp-for-g43/

Norsso N43 9mm C Port Barrel
https://norsso.com/barrels/n43-9mm-c-port-barrel/

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 43X SUB COMPACT ASSEMBLED POLYMER FRAME
https://alnk.to/8tSD0Pv

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 43X SUB COMPACT STRIPPED POLYMER FRAME
https://alnk.to/2uKRF6C

SCT Manufacturing - SCT Billet Magwell For SCT SC Polymer Frame Black
https://alnk.to/aARIMIJ

Holsun EPS Carry MRS Green Dot
https://alnk.to/hDu21lo

TYRANT CNC - EXTENDED SLIDE RELEASE FOR GLOCK® 43/43X/48
https://alnk.to/8ENnZIK

TYRANT CNC - GLOCK® 43X/48 EXTENDED MAGAZINE RELEASES
https://alnk.to/9IhVSCs

Overwatch Precision TAC Drop In Kit
https://overwatchprecision.com/store/glock/drop-in-kits/


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Budget Glock 19 Clone Build (Under $400) | Brownells Slide + SCT 19 Frame

I’m the type of person who likes to personalize everything and you can definitely tell if you see the handguns that I own. Some of them are pretty over the top considering where they started. But I recently wanted to do a budget-friendly build. Something that’s relatively affordable but still looks good and functions well. I’m a big Glock 19 clone guy, so that’s what I wanted to build, a budget-friendly Glock 19 clone. 

This all started when I came across the SCT lowers. These have been around for a while. They offer some upgrades over the regular Glock design, like better grip texture and double undercuts, but for my purposes, the appealing thing about these lowers is that they cost about $50 for the stripped version. You can buy another version with the lower parts already installed and that’s about $90. I went with the stripped version because that’s all that I could find locally. But luckily, I was able to get the lower parts kit from Brownells for $31, so parting it out was cheaper than buying the assembled lower in my case. I’ve never tried this lower parts kit before, so I have no idea how reliable it is. We’ll have to figure that out later during live fire. 

Moving to the upper assembly, I actually already made a whole video dedicated to this upper so check that you if you want more details, but this is the Brownells Premium Slide with the top window cut, and this is important because I also purchased the slide completion kit from Brownells, which came with a ported barrel. Again, watch the dedicated video but considering what I paid for the upper parts kit, it’s just insane that I got a barrel with it, let alone a pretty decent look ported barrel. 

Now, if you haven’t noticed, this entire build is basically from Brownells. The only thing that I didn’t get from them is the stripped lower. And I promise you, Brownells does not sponsor this build. I paid for all this stuff. I just bought all the parts from Brownells because they had the cheapest parts around when I was putting this build together. And again, I’m trying to do a budget-friendly build, but I’m not scouring for the cheapest parts possible from unknown sources and possibly have a constant malfunctioning paperweight. I wanted something cheap enough and from a more reputable brand, and hopefully I’m going to put together something decent. Of course, Brownells has been around for a long time and is well known for making Glock slides and barrels, so there’s some confidence there. I think the main worry is going to come from the super cheap aftermarket internal parts everywhere else. 

After assembling everything, first impression is not great. The upper assembly is noticeably tight, but of course, that can also be attributed to the lower and its rails. I’ve played with this setup a lot. Dry firing and just racking it, but I often still run into situations where the slide doesn’t fully go into battery or the trigger doesn’t actually reset when I rack the slide. When it was all freshly assembled, oftentimes the slide had to be racked two or three times before the trigger would actually reset. But it’s definitely getting better. It’s at a point where the trigger resets every time, but the slide is still getting caught up. I’ve never seen this type of trigger malfunction before, so again, first impressions are not great. I’m going to keep racking this slide like crazy in hopes that things wear down and tolerances become greater before I hit the range. 


I was able to take this build out and test it with live rounds. At this point, it’s been shot about 400 or so rounds, with Federal American Eagle 115gr and 147gr. I didn’t mention this earlier, but I’m running the Osight C green dot on this slide.

When I first started shooting this build, the malfunctions came pretty quickly. I think it malfunctioned after the very first round, when I was zeroing my optic. And that was prevalent over the first 2 mags and 20 or so rounds. I was mainly getting failure to feed and failure to eject. But after the first two mags, things did get a lot better, to the point where I was only getting one malfunction after maybe 3 or 4 mags. But again, the malfunctions really slowed down and it’s pretty obvious that this is a case of the gun just needing to be broken in. 

Earlier, I mentioned that there was a problem with the slide not going into battery and that’s no longer a thing. Even if I try to ride the slide really slowly, it just seats perfectly every time. 

Again, I mentioned that I shot Federal American Eagle 115gr and 147gr which are my primary range ammo. Between the two, I would say that this Brownells ported setup behaves like my other comp or ported setups in that I do feel a noticeable difference between the two grains, with 115gr having noticeably less felt recoil. 

And also like other ported setups that I have, this thing gets dirty pretty quickly. Interestingly,  I would say that this setup runs hotter than the other ported setups that I have. Not so crazy hot that I can’t rack the slide, but it was definitely getting there. 

One thing that I do want to point out is that the black nitride coating that Brownells went with on the barrel kind of sucks. It’s wearing pretty noticeably and is no doubt the fastest that I’ve seen a barrel coating wear off. But again, the barrel is pretty cheap so I don’t know if I can really complain. 

Overall, I’m actually pretty happy with this build, considering how much I put into it. I tallied everything up and I spent $376.11 before tax on this build, not counting the Osight C green dot because I already owned that and just threw it on. Also, considering that this will basically be a range toy, one that I pass off to people who come along and don’t have any guns, I think it’s an overall win. Being that the build is ported, it’s a bit easier to shoot for those inexperienced people and I have no doubts that the more it’s live-fired, the more reliable it will become. I’m pretty happy with this budget-friendly Glock 19 clone build/


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Brownells Premium Slides for Glock Gen1-3

https://alnk.to/90CMICH

Brownells Ported Glock 19 GEN3 Barrel

https://alnk.to/4fUkeBx

Brownells Slide Completion Kit for Glock 19 GEN3 with Ported Barrel

https://alnk.to/deAYgbU

Brownells Premium Slide For Glock & Barrel Combo Kit

https://alnk.to/6TDGWR1

Osight C

https://amzn.to/4dYjamz


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Brownells Premium Window Slide and Ported Barrel for Glock 19

I’m currently in the process of building a cheap Glock 19 clone, range toy, something that I can hand off to people who come along and don’t have guns. For this, I’ve decided to go cheap but not so cheap that we’re scraping eBay for the most obscure brands. After some research, I decided to go with Brownells for the upper assembly because they’ve been selling slides and barrels for years, and their parts are often recommended for budget builds. 

Again, Brownells has been selling slides for some time and they have an older, cheaper version, but I decided to go with their newer Premium slide for the Glock 19 gen 1-3. This one is regularly $249.99, but I picked it up during a sale for $213.99. 

With the Brownells Premium Slides, we get some updated milling and styling. The serrations are reminiscent of the standard Glock serrations, but these are deeper and are angled so that they’re more ergonomic and engage with your skin better when racking. My slide has a top port, but that is optional. 

Currently, these slides are milled from 17-4 stainless steel, only available in black nitride coating, and all come with the Zev style RMR cut with the raised posts. No cover plate is included. If you buy the premium slide for a Glock 43, it will come with a Holosun K cut. 

This is a stripped slide but Brownells also sells small parts and everything you need to complete the upper. I picked up this slide completion kit for  $78.99, and the crazy thing is, this kit comes with plastic sights and a barrel. This particular barrel is their Glock 19 Gen 3 ported barrel and it retails for $59.99. Again, I got the whole kit for $78.99, so you understand that that’s quite the steal if you’ve ever sourced these parts out. 

But if we look at the barrel, it’s not even a cheap, plain barrel. This one is milled to have flutes and a design on the hood. This is a pretty good-looking barrel in comparison to many more expensive options. The milling could be a bit cleaner, considering that you can see some of the milling marks, but it’s hard to complain considering the price point. Again, this barrel is ported and it matches perfectly with the lightning cut on my slide. 

In total, I spent $292.98 before tax on this completed upper assembly and that’s a crazy deal. If you’re going the DIY route and picking parts, this is hard to beat in terms of pricing. The only Glock clone that really compares is the PSA Dagger but PSA has their own ultra-low budget thing going on where no one can really compete with them. Personally, I didn’t want a completed firearm and wanted to mix and match parts, so this was the route that I decided to go with. 

Unfortunately, the lower that I intend to put this upper on is still waiting to clear my local dealer. When my lower clears, I’ll come back with a complete build video featuring my budget-friendly Glock 19 clone build. 

If you’re interested in the parts that I used, check out the link below where I’ve included everything. 


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the affiliate links below.

Brownells Premium Slides for Glock Gen1-3

https://alnk.to/90CMICH

Brownells Ported Glock 19 GEN3 Barrel

https://alnk.to/4fUkeBx

Brownells Slide Completion Kit for Glock 19 GEN3 with Ported Barrel

https://alnk.to/deAYgbU

Brownells Premium Slide For Glock & Barrel Combo Kit

https://alnk.to/6TDGWR1

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 19 COMPACT FRAME
https://alnk.to/6xOidNZ

SCT Manufacturing - SCT 19 OVERMOLD FRAME
https://alnk.to/faFqhMZ

SCT Manufacturing - ASSEMBLED FRAME FOR GEN 3 G19, G23, & G32 POLYMER
https://alnk.to/deB5uOR


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